So much is different when you make a Chanel-type jacket following couture methods. The first thing that is strange is that once you have made a fitted a toile, you must then remove the seam allowances from your pattern(😱😱😱) and then pin the pieces to your fabric. Now comes the important part: you have to trace tack all the stitching lines around each piece. All the balance marks and notches have to be transferred too. It takes a while.

Interestingly the lining in one of these jackets is quilted onto the fabric. But as you can see below, large amounts of seam allowance are left to allow for fitting.

The jacket outer is assembled using machine stitches and the lining is all joined using hand stitches. I have loved the hand stitching. The fronts of the jacket are underlined with silk organza with the front edges stabilised by a stip of silk organza selvage. All of which are hand sewn onto the jacket.

I have also made samples of different types of buttonholes. The rule with Chanel jackets is: never a button without a buttonhole. Even the decorative ones on the sleeve.

So progress is being made. I am now making the fringe for the trim. More photos to follow. The amount of work is such that sewing takes priority over blogging!