Completely in a fug but the mist is lifting

So much is different when you make a Chanel-type jacket following couture methods. The first thing that is strange is that once you have made a fitted a toile, you must then remove the seam allowances from your pattern(😱😱😱) and then pin the pieces to your fabric. Now comes the important part: you have to trace tack all the stitching lines around each piece. All the balance marks and notches have to be transferred too. It takes a while.

Interestingly the lining in one of these jackets is quilted onto the fabric. But as you can see below, large amounts of seam allowance are left to allow for fitting.

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The jacket outer is assembled using machine stitches and the lining is all joined using hand stitches. I have loved the hand stitching. The fronts of the jacket are underlined with silk organza with the front edges stabilised by a stip of silk organza selvage. All of which are hand sewn onto the jacket.

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I have also made samples of different types of buttonholes. The rule with Chanel jackets is: never a button without a buttonhole. Even the decorative ones on the sleeve.

So progress is being made. I am now making the fringe for the trim. More photos to follow. The amount of work is such that sewing takes priority over blogging!

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